Sikkim and Bhutan/ White, J.Claude

I. THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION AND GENERAL FEA
TURES OF THE STATES OF SIKHIM AND BHUTAN
II. THE PEOPLE: THEIR MORALS, RELIGION, AND LAN
GUAGE
III. A SHORT HISTORY OF SIKHIM
IV. EARLY REMINISCENCES
First visit to Sikhim, 1887. The brothers Khangsa Dewan and Phodong Lama, the Shoe Dewan and Kazis. Return to Gangtak with the Entchi Column, 1888. First meeting with Their Highnesses the Maharaja and Maharani of Sikhim
V. MORE EARLY REMINISCENCES
My appointment to Sikhim. Departure of the Maharaja to Kurseong. Inspection of the country with Phodong Lama and Shoe Dewan. Opening up by means of roads and bridges. Sources of revenue. Mineral wealth. Visit to Yatung,
so-called Trade Mart
VI. MORE EARLY REMINISCENCES
Building a house. Lepcha servants. Supplies. A garden party. The Residency garden. Roses and lilies, A wave of colour. Orchids. Visit to Tumlong. Worship of Kangchenjunga. Lama dance. Missionaries. Difficulties of travelling. Crossing the Teesta in flood. Liffidslips. Leeches
CHAP.
VII. THE DELHI DURBAR AND VISIT OF THE CHIEFS TO
CALCUTTA TO MEET THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES
THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES
VIII. EXPEDITIONS AND EXPLORATIONS IN SIKHIM
From Gangtak over the Giucha-la to Ringen. Loss of a coolie. Camp amongst glaciers and moraines. A snow leopard. Alpine flowers. Avalanches and ice caves. Crossing a difficult gorge. Lepchas and wild bees. The Rungnn. Sakhyong
IX. EXPEDITIONS AND EXPLORATIONS IN SIKHIM—con
tinued
From Gangtak to the Zemu glacier, Lonak Valley, Lachen and Lachung. Mr. Hoffmann. Cloud effects. Cane bridges. Hot springs. Talung Monastery arid its treasures. Grazing land and Tibetan herdsmen. Yak transport. Locusts. The Sebu Pass. Snow-blindness. Lachung. Goral-shooting
X. EXPEDITIONS AND EXPLORATIONS IN SIKHIM—<xj»
tinued
Demarcation of the northern boundary between Sikhim and Tibet. Difficulties of transport. Mountain sickness. Survey work. Caught in a storm. Durkey Sirdar. Ovis ammon. Photographing the glaciers. A ride at 21,600 feet. Evidence
of former size of the glaciers
XI. DEPARTURE FROM SIKHIM
XII. HISTORY OF THE FOUNDING OF BHUTAN
XIII. MY FIRST MISSION TO BHUTAN
From Gangtak to Tashi-cho-jong. Choice of routes. The Natu-Ia in bad weather. Deputation in the Chumbi Valley. Entering Bhutan. The Hah-la and Meru-la. Punishment for murder. Leather cannon. Paro. The Penlop's wives. Paro-jong. Tamer's description. Eden's description. Duggye.. Weeping cypress at Chalimaphe. The quarrel between Ugyen Wang-chuk and Aloo Dorji. Murder of Poonakha Jongpen. Tashi-cho-jong
XIV. MY FIRST MISSION TO BHUTAN—conii««<i
From Tashi-cho-jong to Tongsa-jong. Simtoka-jong. Entry into Poonakha. The Deb Raja. Presentation of K.C.I.E. Description of Poonakha Fort. Expedition to Norbugang and Talo Monasteries. Visit of the Tango Lama. So-na-gasa the 2emri-gatchie of Turner. Farewell visit to the Deb. Angdu-phodang. Death of my dog Nari. The Pele-Ia. Tongsa-jong. Bad roads. Water-power prayer-wheels. The ceremony of blessing the rice-fields
XV. MY FIRST MISSION TO BHUTAN—co»tin««(i
From Tongsa-jong to Bya-gha, Lingzi, and Phari. Hos pitality of the Tongsa and Tongsa's sister at Bya-gha. Old monasteries near Bya-gha. Ancient traditions. Carvers and carpenters at the Champa Lhakhang Monastery. Regret at leaving Bya-gha. Lama dances. Farewell to Sir Ugyen. Reception at Tashi-cho-jong. Last interview with the Deb Raja. Ta-tshang lamas. Cheri Monastery. Magnificent scenery. Incorrect maps. Exposure of the dead to lammergeiers. View of Tibet from the Ling-shi Pass. Break-up of the Mission ■
XVI. AN EXPLORATION OF EASTERN BHUTAN AND A
PORTION OF TIBET IN 1906 =
From Gangtak via Dewangiri to Tashigong and Tashiyangtsi, and on to Tsekang. Horse-flies. Dorunga. Cypripedium Fairianum. Sudden rise of the river. Tigers near the camp. Chungkhar. Borshang iron-mines. Tashigong. Stick lac cultivation. Suspension bridges. Source of the Dongma-chhu. Tashi-yangtsi. Prayer-wheels. Old roads. Chorten Kara. New flowering trees
XVII. AN EXPLORATION OF EASTERN BHUTAN AND A PORTION OF TIBET IN igo6—continued
From Tsekang to Lhakhang-jong. Lhalung Monastery and Pho-mo-chang-thang Lake to Gyantse. Crossing the Bod-la
between Bhutan and Tibet. Riding yaks. Welcome in Tibet. Meeting with Sir Ugyen. Wild gooseberries. Old goldworkings. Friendliness of Tibetans. Lhakhang-jong. Tuwajong. Dekila, widow of Norbu Sring. Lhalung Monastery. Ovis ammon. Source of the Nyeru-chhu
XVIII. MY SECOND MISSION TO BHUTAN
Severe weather. Shau. A frozen torrent. Dug-gye-jong. A visit to Paro Ta-tshang Monastery. Sang-tog-peri. Parojong burnt down. Arrival at Poonakha. The Tongsa's band
XIX. MY SECOND MISSION TO BHUTAN—
Installation of Sir Ugyen as Maharaja of Bhutan. Presen tation of gifts. Tea ceremony. Oath of allegiance. Seal of the Dharma Raja. Chinese influence on the frontier. Christmas Day. Feeding the poor. Return of escort. Discussion of State affairs with Maharaja and council I leave for Jaigaon. A Takin. Inspection of frontier. Wild animals
XX. BRITISH MISSIONS TO BHUTAN
Bogle, 1774. Hamilton, 1775 and 1777. Turner, 1783. Pemberton, 1838. Eden, 1864. White, 1903. White, 1907
XXI. BRITISH RELATIONS WITH BHUTAN FROM 1772
Nepalese invasion of Tibet, 1792. The Athara Duars. ^Friction with Bhutan. Our occupation of the Bengal Duars. Expedition against Bhutan. Loss of guns. Treaty of Rawa Pani. Whole of Duars taken by us. Tongsa Penlop accom panies expedition to Lhasa. Sir Ugyen's visit to Calcutta. Sir Ugyen elected Maharaja
XXII. FOREIGN RELATIONS WITH BHUTAN
China. Tibet. Nepal. Sikhim. Cooch Behar
XXIII. ARTS AND INDUSTRIES OF SIKHIM AND BHUTAN
Chinese and Indian influence. Metal-work in Sikhim. Method of casting. Sikhim knives. Aniline dyes. Weaving school in Lachung. Carpet factory in Gangtak. Apple orchards in Lachung and Chumbi. Cheese and butter making. Bhutan metal-work. A wonderful pan-box. Beaten copper and silver work. Bells. Swords and daggers. Weaving. Needlework pictures. Basket-work. Influence of the feudal system. Inferiority of Tibetan work. Wood-carving in Sikhim, Bhutan, and Nepal